Day 19
Sunday 14th July 2013
Without
wishing to make the same mistake, we left early this morning. A bit like
Queensland now...." Beautiful one day, perfect the next".
We had
the pleasure and privilege of waiting at the entrance of the Savoyeux Tunnel.
There was
a tinge of mist highlighted by the sun. A long avenue of very tall, perfectly
spaced trees, in front of a steep embankment enclosed us in. Long white stone
retaining walls outlining the dead calm, glassy water stretched before us.
Ahead, an impressive Empire style, grand stone entrance framed the 680m tunnel.
 |
| Savoyeux Tunnel |
 |
| Exiting the tunnel |
To
support the national obsession with fishing, we were now passing little
pontoons and moorings, built along the banks of the Saône river, for small craft and dinghies to moor
against,........to throw out a line, try their luck, set up a deck chair or
2, lay our a rug, or just relax in the
sublime setting.
 |
| A keen fisherman |
We passed
a father / son team, tied up in a secluded spot...... A scene of such innocence
and tenderness: ....their faces, cheek to cheek, his arms wrapped around his
young son, helping him hold the fishing line, talking and pointing to the swans
who were gliding around their dinghy.
No news
is good news for me now.
We
reached the city of Gray minutes shy of midday. As we drew closer, the sounds
of loud speakers and music wafted towards us. At 12, the towers chimed. The
bells heralded the significance of the day.
From our vantage point, we could see rows of hot pink umbrellas, set up
for celebrations. We were tempted to stay for the festivities and evening
fireworks...but, instead, we exercised caution and continued.
 |
| Gray |
 |
| Gray |
 |
| Gray |
 |
| Flowers abounded in Gray. This gorgeous display was repeated multiple times and lined the river front |
Gray
Gray profits
from its privileged natural position, where, since conquest by Louis XIV, in 1674,
her harbour activities developed to become one of first river ports of France
for wines, corn and metals.
Fortunes were
built and, with them, the superb residences are still adding to the splendour
of the 16th century old center.
Every
boat we saw now was a hire boat...
There
were so many pleasure craft moored alongside the banks of the river.......
families having picnics on the river's edge, people worshipping the sun,
sprawled on deck, garden parties happening ...and of course, countless numbers
of keen fishermen, at one popular spot, a competition with a lineup of 20 or more, each with a net
cascading to the water.
 |
| The Fishing Competition |
A 3:00 we
passed the start of the canal from Burgundy to Champagne
.
Great
relief was felt when overtaking a barge we had encountered several times
before....but the victory was short lived.... he had priority at the lock!
In
pulling over, we met the rocky bank...another
"lost control" moment with a prevailing breeze......darn!
G has a
new theory. He drives, contemplates, and reads the engine manual which he
downloaded last year........this one involves thermostats. Sounds logical..yet
to be tested.
We
arrived at the very tightly packed
Auxonne Marina...bang on target once more.......so minimal were the clearances
that we seconded help from an experienced skipper to back into the designated mooring.
.................but NOT this skipper pictured below !!!!!................
 |
| Mutiny??? |
Auxonne
Auxonne is
located 40 km south-west of Dijon, on the border of Burgundy and Franche-Comté.
It was a former border town between France and the German Empire; Auxonne was
also famous for its Artillery College, whose most renowned student was Napoléon
Bonaparte.
In the
Middle-Ages, there were two rival feudal states called Burgundy, a Duchy and a
County, later transformed into Burgundy and Franche-Comté, respectively.
In the IXth
century, Aussona (Auxonne) was purchased by Duke of Burgundy Hughes IV from the
County of Burgundy.
The city was
protected by ramparts made of compacted earth surmonted by a stockade, and by
marshes and the river Saône.
Auxonne ceased to
be a border town in 1384. After the Hundred Years' War, which did not damage
Auxonne, a big city wall with 23 towers and four gates was built around the
small city.
Within
minutes, the networking began......chatting to delightful neighbours, Glen and
Trish from New Zealand. Adjacent to them.......a clan from Canterbury,
Melbourne!
The
" live-on-board" American couple, sporting a handsome barge smothered
in flowers, identified a large Aussie
contingent who moor in Rouen over winter. We were surrounded by international
boaters, out and up on deck, soaking up the evening ambience:...... the mild
temperature, the long shadows, the enticing aroma from the organised BBQ,
drinking, dining, laughing and later, to Ali's delight, playing cards.The
finale was an extraordinary display of fireworks, clearly visible and very
impressive.
This was
Bastille day.
Despite
being merely hours away from St Jean, it was now time to reward ourselves. The
planned destination was Dole.
 |
| Enjoying dinner on the deck with the sun setting |
Locks:
7
Overall: 217 out of 218
Distance: 72 km
Overall:
947 out of 959
